2 Neck Rick Steel with no switch?
Moderator: Brad Bechtel
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2 Neck Rick Steel with no switch?
I have one of the old metal body, bakelite neck Rickenbacker 2 neck, 8 string steel guitars. I think it's a D-16 or DC-16. It's cool, but the wiring is confusing me. Has anyone seen this? Was this ever normal? Can you explain to me how to use it?
The pot at the bottom is a volume for both pickups and at the top is a tone for both pickups. How do I use one neck at a time with this? Do I need to drill it out and install a switch? Or maybe some kind of pullout pots to switch each pickup on and off?
The pot at the bottom is a volume for both pickups and at the top is a tone for both pickups. How do I use one neck at a time with this? Do I need to drill it out and install a switch? Or maybe some kind of pullout pots to switch each pickup on and off?
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- Posts: 2009
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Re: 2 Neck Rick Steel with no switch?
I have the 6 string version wired the same way. The double neck configuration assumes you will be jumping from neck to neck, hence no switch. Simply play the neck you need at the moment and then jump over to the other in turn. I have mine tuned to C6 and E13 and frequently jump back and forth during a song.
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Re: 2 Neck Rick Steel with no switch?
Thank you.Tim Whitlock wrote: 30 Sep 2025 7:10 am I have the 6 string version wired the same way. The double neck configuration assumes you will be jumping from neck to neck, hence no switch. Simply play the neck you need at the moment and then jump over to the other in turn. I have mine tuned to C6 and E13 and frequently jump back and forth during a song.
You don't have an issue with the strings on the other neck droning and ringing out while you play?
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Re: 2 Neck Rick Steel with no switch?
I do experience the droning to some degree depending on the proximity to the amp. It's inherent with most all multi-neck steel guitars when all necks are on at the same time. Since I'm on the C6 neck about 75% of the time, I keep that tuning on the outer neck, so that while I'm playing it my right arm is muting the strings on the inner neck. The other thing that helps is to move away from the amp. I rarely gig with the Rick but when I do the droning is not an issue, possibly due to extraneous noise drowning it out. I only notice it when I'm playing solo at home and sitting close to the amp. I would not recommend modifying a vintage steel guitar (other than replacing broken tuners for example) as it will diminish the value and I just think historical instruments should be preserved as much as possible. Good luck with yours! I find the metal/bakelite Ricks are great sounding lap steels!Shawn Jackson wrote: 30 Sep 2025 8:23 amThank you.Tim Whitlock wrote: 30 Sep 2025 7:10 am I have the 6 string version wired the same way. The double neck configuration assumes you will be jumping from neck to neck, hence no switch. Simply play the neck you need at the moment and then jump over to the other in turn. I have mine tuned to C6 and E13 and frequently jump back and forth during a song.
You don't have an issue with the strings on the other neck droning and ringing out while you play?
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- Posts: 2009
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Re: 2 Neck Rick Steel with no switch?
One other thing. I notice the droning more when the Rick is sitting on a table. Not so much when it's on my lap (and they are pretty unwieldy to play on your lap). If I have it on a table I will put a towel or something under it to dampen the vibrations.
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Re: 2 Neck Rick Steel with no switch?
Thank you for your perspective. I had been going through buyer's remorse, but now I think I can make it work.Tim Whitlock wrote: 1 Oct 2025 7:53 am One other thing. I notice the droning more when the Rick is sitting on a table. Not so much when it's on my lap (and they are pretty unwieldy to play on your lap). If I have it on a table I will put a towel or something under it to dampen the vibrations.
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Re: 2 Neck Rick Steel with no switch?
In the early days of electric guitars nobody made a double pickup guitar. Nobody had a clue and the electronic evolution was all trial and error. The first double pickup guitars were double neck lap steels. Gibson and Epiphone had flush (level) necks and flip-up banjo style mutes for the neck not being used. They made banjos so that was what they were familiar with. National did have raised outside necks but each neck had its own volume and tone control and output jack/Amphenol connector. Three way switches did exist but nobody thought of that simple solution in the beginning.
No need to drill a hole, "bugger" the instrument, and lower the resale value. Any decent guitar tech can remove the complete wiring harness and controls, replace with a complete new harness with one hole having a stacked volume and tone pot assembly and the other having a three-way toggle or rotating neck switch.
MLA
No need to drill a hole, "bugger" the instrument, and lower the resale value. Any decent guitar tech can remove the complete wiring harness and controls, replace with a complete new harness with one hole having a stacked volume and tone pot assembly and the other having a three-way toggle or rotating neck switch.
MLA
"Wisdom does not always come with age. Many times age arrives alone."